sous vide carnitas recipe – use real butter (2024)

sous vide carnitas recipe – use real butter (1) Recipe: sous vide carnitas

The end of last week was complete Crazytown. As the trial headed toward closing arguments, a winter storm warning materialized into a Big Ass Storm in the mountains. We were supposed to get 3 to 7 inches of snow overnight, which I thought would be fine for me to get down the canyon to report for jury duty. Instead, we woke to 10 inches of snow, and by the time I left the house, another 4 inches had fallen in two hours and was coming down heavily. I gave myself an extra hour, but it turned out that I probably should have stayed at home. Spring and fall snow storms can be particularly tricky because there is that added component of water due to moderate temperatures.


2 feet of snow in 19 hours

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Once I reached the narrows (a narrow and steep section of the canyon, notoriously dangerous when conditions are slick) I passed two trucks that had spun out on their way up. Visibility and traction were poor so that no one was traveling faster than 15 mph. There was nowhere to turn around safely, so I continued. Then I passed another truck that had gotten stuck in the snow. That’s when my Subaru began to slide where the road is canted and there was nothing I could do to stop it. It was a slow, but unnerving lateral movement toward the guard rail which keeps drivers from plunging into the rushing creek below. Subie came to a gentle stop against the two feet of snow between the car and the rail, but I was stuck. The young woman in the stuck truck ran over to help dig me out and after thirty minutes of failed attempts, I was finally able to get unstuck thanks to her pushing the car out. [If that young woman ever reads this, I owe you a bottle of wine, a cake, a fancy home-cooked meal, and my deepest gratitude.] All the while it was nuking snow, cars were slip-sliding everywhere, and I knew it would be impossible to drive home in those conditions. Heading down to Boulder was my safest option as there is no cell reception in the canyon.

I was 20 minutes late getting to court, and I knew I was holding up the trial. I ran through security in tears – a little traumatized, a lot upset – but I made it and we got underway. We lost power a half dozen times in court while the storm wreaked havoc all around. At the end of closing arguments, I found out that I was one of the two alternate jurors and that I could go home. A big part of me felt great relief, but I also felt sad that I wasn’t going to finish this journey with my fellow jurors (it was a terrific group of people), and then I felt annoyance that I drove through that sh*t show in the canyon to find out that I didn’t have to be in court. By the time I left the courthouse, it was snowing lightly in Boulder and Jeremy texted that the snow had let up at home. Aha! A window in the storm! But the canyon was closed because of a jack-knifed semi in the narrows. So I waited with a handful of others for 30 minutes next to the police car at the closure point until the road was cleared for travel. Despite the additional 12-18 inches of snow that had fallen since I drove down that morning, the roads were in far better shape with plows actively working the canyon. Once I got home, I just wanted to lie still and let Neva lick my ears and hair.


the morning after the storm

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jeremy clears the deck while neva is neva

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We are now in Crested Butte, de-winterizing the house and cleaning up all of the broken branches and repairing drip system components that were hammered by this winter’s 325 inches of snow. It’s quiet here. That’s shoulder season in a resort town. Folks flock to the desert to mountain bike while the trails slowly thaw out around town. Restaurants are either closed or operating on reduced hours. I like the quiet. I like the quiet.


the view east from monarch pass

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glacier lilies starting to bloom

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neva being an extra good and sweet girl on her hike

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After a stressful day or event like my ride down the canyon, most folks could use a drink. I certainly felt like I could have used a drink – except I don’t drink. But you know what relaxes and soothes me better than a glass of whiskey? Tacos. Specifically, carnitas tacos. Some of us seek comfort in food rather than drink, and I happen to be one of those who prefers savory over sweet comfort food. I always order the carnitas tacos at a taco joint as my litmus test. It’s not that I know anything about how carnitas ought to be, I just know what I like.


pork shoulder, onion, orange, bay leaves, garlic, cinnamon, kosher salt

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slice the pork into 2-inch thick slabs

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prepped ingredients

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Imagine my excitement when I happened upon a reference to sous vide carnitas and followed the link to The Food Lab. You bet I wanted to try it. I wanted to see if sous vide could give me flavorful carnitas that were also tender and moist.


squeeze the orange quarters over the pork

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sprinkle with kosher salt

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toss it all together

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If you read Kenji’s guide to sous vide carnitas, he offers a range of temperatures and times for cooking that will yield slightly different textures in the meat. I usually opt for the shortest time (and thus, the highest temperature) because I don’t have a lot of patience, but in this case, it also results in a texture like that of traditional carnitas. I managed to fit everything in a single gallon-size ziploc bag, but in hindsight, it is probably best to divide that evenly among two of those bags. This makes it easier to situate the bags in the sous vide bath and to release air as it builds up in the bag over the cooking time. The bags tend to float, so I found it helpful to clamp a long metal spoon to the side of the vessel with the bag between the spoon and the vessel wall to hold it in place. Check on the sous vide periodically to make sure the water level remains above the pork. To minimize evaporation, you can cover the vessel with aluminum foil.


stuff it into a ziploc bag or two (or use vacuum sealed bags)

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lower the bag into the bath to displace the air (and seal it)

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clamp the bag down and let the bath come to temperature

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The reason I recommend using two bags instead of one is because I kept having to open the bag and squeeze out the additional air that was building up inside the bag. When the bag is nearly full, it’s hard to seal it shut without burning your fingers in the water bath. A little extra headspace between the ingredients and the zipper seal makes the task far easier and less painful.

Once the pork is cooked, you can remove it from the bag and discard everything else. The pork should be tender enough to shred with a couple of forks. Once shredded, the pork can be stored in the refrigerator or freezer until you are ready to use it. To finish the carnitas, you can broil the meat or brown it in a skillet until the edges are crisped.


shred the pork

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store it in the refrigerator or freezer or finish cooking it

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browning the carnitas in a skillet

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So how did this sous vide carnitas compare to every other carnitas I’ve tried? I think it ranks up there with the best of them and it is far tastier than most carnitas I’ve had (in Colorado). It’s tender and moist even though I cooked it at the highest temperature. The browned bits are my favorite and the flavor is spot on. And if you don’t have a sous vide, but want to make carnitas, Kenji links to his oven method. But the sous vide method is so easy, I think it’s safe to say I will always have a bag of carnitas at the ready in my freezer for parties, for quick dinners, or for that occasional much-needed comfort food.


carnitas tacos

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don’t forget the pickled onions

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and a sprinkle of cilantro with a wedge of avocado

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my idea of comfort food

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Sous Vide Carnitas
[print recipe]
from Serious Eats The Food Lab

4 lbs. boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch thick slabs
1 medium onion, roughly chopped
6 medium cloves garlic
1 stick cinnamon, broken into 3-4 pieces
2 bay leaves
1 medium orange with peel, cut into quarters
kosher salt

Set the sous vide to 185°F (or you can shoot for lower temperatures and longer cook times that result in different textures – please refer to Kenji’s guide for more information).

Place the pork, onion, garlic, cinnamon, and bay leaves in a large bowl. Squeeze the juice of each orange quarter over the pork. Toss the squeezed orange quarters into the bowl. Season liberally with kosher salt. Place all of the contents in a vacuum seal bag or plastic ziploc bag. If using a vacuum seal bag, vacuum seal the contents. If using a ziploc, I found it much easier to divvy the ingredients up between two one-gallon ziploc bags and pushing the air out using the displacement method (submerge the bag in a deep volume of water until most of the air is out of the bag, but the zipper part is still above water, then seal the zipper). Otherwise the bag becomes increasingly unwieldy to deal with as the pork cooks in the sous vide bath.

Set the bag or bags in the sous vide bath, clipping the tops of any ziploc bags to the side of your vessel (to ensure you don’t get any leaks), but making certain that the pork is submerged. If it floats to the top, you can keep it down by clipping a metal spoon to the base of the bag or clipping the end of a long metal spoon to the side of the vessel, allowing the spoon to act as a clamp on the bag. Cover the vessel with ping pong balls or aluminum foil to reduce evaporation, but you will need to periodically check on the water level of the sous vide bath and replenish it from time to time so it doesn’t fall below the level of the meat. Cook for 8 hours.

When the pork is cooked, remove the bag(s) from the bath. Empty everything into a large bowl and pick out the pork. Let the pork cool enough so you can work with it, then shred it with two forks. You can refrigerate the pork at this point and use it within 5 days or forge ahead with deliciousness.

To crisp the carnitas: If using a broiler, set the broiler to high with the oven rack at the very top level to the broiler. Spread the pork over a baking sheet and broil, flipping pieces over a few times until the meat is browned and crisp (about 10 minutes). If using a skillet, cook the carnitas in batches over medium heat, turning every few minutes until crisp (about 10 minutes).

Serve hot. Serves 8-12.


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May 21st, 2017: 9:35 pm
filed under dinner, fruit, gluten-free, meat, mexican, recipes, savory, sous vide, spices, vegetables

sous vide carnitas recipe – use real butter (2024)

FAQs

Can I use butter instead of lard for carnitas? ›

Butter or ghee is a good substitute in some cases. I use a veggie oil (avocado) or coconut oil with vegetable or meat broth in the masa for tamales. These lessen the high fats, make the masa fluffy instead of hard and dry.

What is the secret to good carnitas? ›

I've made carnitas many times using a completely different method and it turned out pretty good. But it is important to note that the traditional way to make carnitas is by slow cooking it in lard. I think it also gives it a more authentic taste. Seasoning- Salt, Mexican oregano, cumin, & black pepper.

What temperature do you sous vide carnitas? ›

Temperature and Timing for Sous Vide Carnitas
Cooking Temperatures for Sous Vide Carnitas
145°F (63°C) for 24 to 36 hoursVery tender and moist; not very shreddable. Better for cubing or searing as slabs.
165°F (74°C) for 12 to 24 hoursMoist and easy to shred with your hands or forks
1 more row

Can I use vegetable oil instead of lard for carnitas? ›

Yes, you could make carnitas using vegetable oil instead of lard. But as they say, life is short. At the restaurant, we render the lard ourselves— something you can do if you can find extra-fatty pork. But for ready-to go lard, check out your local butcher shop or Mexican market.

What happens if you substitute butter for lard? ›

Butter can be equally subbed for shortening or lard, but because it contains 80% fat, you might have chewier cookies or slightly richer pie dough than one made with another fat.

How much butter instead of lard? ›

Because butter contains slightly less fat than lard, you may need to use a bit more to achieve the same results. For each cup (205 grams) of lard, you should use approximately 1 1/4 cups (284 grams) of butter.

Why do you add milk to carnitas? ›

Adding the oranges is very much like braising pork Cuban-style for the traditional cubano sandwich. The milk acts as a tenderizer, a secret I learned while growing up watching dad make his carnitas which, by the way, were always exceptionally tender.

Why do you put orange juice in carnitas? ›

The orange juice in the cooking liquid provides acidity that helps break down the meat so it's extra tender and juicy.

How do you keep pork carnitas from drying out? ›

Oven temps for perfect carnitas

For our carnitas, we want the temperature of the confit cooking fat to be about 200°F (93°C) or a little higher. At this temperature, we won't be drying out the surface of the meat cubes while we heat their centers.

How long to sous vide pork at 140 degrees? ›

Sous vide – cook the pork chops at 140°F for at least 1 hour (up to 4 hours). Sear – add the ghee or oil to a cast-iron skillet over high heat, then add the pork chops to the pan. Sear for about 2 minutes per side, until a crust forms.

What is the best temp in sous vide pork shoulder? ›

Recommended Sous Vide Pork Shoulder Temperatures
Temp and TimeResult
145°F for 18 to 24 hoursSliceable and extra moist
165°F for 18 to 24 hoursShreddable and moist

Is it safe to sous vide pork at 140? ›

So long as you're cooking at above 130°F, there are no real health risks associated with prolonged sous vide cooking.

What does evaporated milk do to carnitas? ›

A surprising ingredient here, sweetened condensed milk, helps the pork caramelize during cooking. Source a well-marbled pork roast for this recipe; the extra fat doubles down on the rich pork flavor.

How much lard is needed for carnitas? ›

Ingredient Notes

Pork Butt – to start, you'll need 1 (6-pound) pork butt cut into 2- to -4 inch pieces. Lard – because this is a traditional carnitas recipe, you'll also need lard. About 2 pounds of lard will do the trick.

What is the best oil for carnitas? ›

Vegetable oil: Traditional carnitas recipes use lard as their cooking fat, but we'll use vegetable or canola oil today. Pork shoulder roast: The best cut of meat for carnitas is pork shoulder AKA pork butt AKA Boston butt because it is well-marbled with fat and cooks up incredibly tender with a long braise.

What is a substitute for lard in Mexican cooking? ›

Vegetable shortening is a meat-free and dairy-free substitute for lard, allowing you to serve tamales to meat eaters and vegans alike. That said, there are other substitutes for lard that will work well in tamale recipes as well, like refined coconut oil, butter, and avocado oil.

Is pork lard better than butter? ›

Butter and lard nutrition

Butter, especially grassfed, is high in Vitamins A and E. A tablespoon of lard, in comparison, is about 115 calories, but is only about 25 percent of your daily saturated fat intake. Lard is also lower in cholesterol than butter, but doesn't contain Vitamins A and E.

Can you use unsalted butter instead of lard? ›

The best substitute for lard is butter. Unless your recipe says otherwise, you'll want to use unsalted butter as a substitute in most recipes that call for the lard. There are other alternatives as well. If you prefer, you can use shortening or oils like coconut, vegetable, or olive.

Can you make tamales with butter instead of lard? ›

Butter or ghee is a good substitute in some cases. I use a veggie oil (avocado) or coconut oil with vegetable or meat broth in the masa for tamales. These lessen the high fats, make the masa fluffy instead of hard and dry.

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